Rwanda lies just south of the Equator, in the heart of Africa. In the space of a week, it’s possible to experience many highlights thanks to the country’s relatively small size. In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are great, old volcanoes towering almost 15,000 feet, and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest known as the Virungas that’s home to the mountain gorillas. About a third of the world’s remaining mountains gorillas live in Rwanda. Situated in the far northwest of Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park protects the steep slopes of this magnificent mountain range – home of the endangered mountain gorilla and twelve other primate species with a rich mosaic of montane ecosystems, which embrace evergreen and bamboo forest, open grassland, swamp and heath.
While Rwanda has seen tremendous tragedy, this small country is also a place of immense beauty and continued healing… Your visit to their natural habitat may be the only hope for their future. A once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the rare mountain gorilla will surely change your life—and it may well save theirs.
On Rwanda’s western border with Congo you’ll find Volcanoes National Park that encompasses the slopes of these ancient peaks. It is one of Africa’s oldest parks, established in 1925 expressly to protect the mountain gorilla. Volcanoes National Park is named after the chain of dormant volcanoes making up the Virunga Massif: Karisimbi – the highest at 4,507m, Bisoke with its verdant crater lake, Sabinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura.
Tracking endangered mountain gorillas through the mysterious intimacy of the rain forest, alive with the calls of 200 species of colorful birds and chattering of the rare golden monkey, is only one of the truly unique experiences in the area.
Trekking from cultivated foothills into vine-tangled depths in search of these magnificent creatures is not just a safari highlight, but a high point of a lifetime. To sit and match a gaze with the contemplative eyes of a huge silverback is one of the most emotional wildlife encounters on the planet. You are also sure to see chattering monkeys and melodic birds, and you may spy a giant forest hog or bushbuck.
Eight habituated gorilla groups are open to tourist visits, with a maximum of 8 visitors to each group for a one-hour period per day. Nearly 200 of Rwanda’s bird species are also found within the park including 29 endemics, as well as giant forest hog, warthog, bush pig, forest elephant, buffalo, bushbuck, waterbuck, black-fronted duiker, spotted hyena, civet, genet, mongoose and tree hyrax.
Within the boundaries of Volcanoes National Park are Buhanga Eco-Park, an ancient forest holding Rwanda’s most intriguing folklore and Musanze Caves, formed 62 million years ago after the last estimated volcanic eruption.
Hiking, canoeing, mountain biking and village experiences offer something for everyone to enjoy.
RWANDA SITES
Towns:
Kigali
Ideally positioned in the centre of Rwanda, Kigali extends across several hills and valleys, with good road links to the rest of the country. The verdant capital city is pleasantly low key yet dynamic and progressive, with just over one million inhabitants.
First-time visitors to the bustling and colourful centre often remark how clean the streets are, a matter of pride across every community throughout the country.
Kigali is a relatively new city. It was founded as an administrative outpost in 1907, and became the capital of the country at independence in 1962, shifting focus away from Huye.
The city’s wide tree-lined boulevards and immaculate squares are safe to stroll, where outsiders are generally left to their own devices unless they need assistance, in which case they will be greeted with warm hospitality
There is a burgeoning art scene, as well as a growing number of options to dine out and have a few drinks, many with charming panoramic views. The Kigali Cultural Village offers a dedicated space for local artisans and food vendors to exhibit and trade their goods.
Kigali is developing rapidly, with new shopping malls, office buildings and a world-class convention centre built in the style of the King’s Palace of olden days, which lights up the night sky atop of one of the many hills.
The central business district covers Nyarugenge Hill while the government and administrative quarter is further east on Kacyiru Hill.
Nyarutarama Lake, or Lover’s Lake, borders an 18-hole golf course in one of the main valleys. The track around the lake is remarkably peaceful and makes for an excellent urban nature walk, with the chance to see some of Rwanda’s incredible birds.
No visit to Rwanda would be complete without a visit to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which, through education and peace-building, honours the memory of the more than one million Rwandans killed in 1994. The three permanent exhibitions and burial gardens form part of a meaningful tribute to those who perished, and provide a powerful educational tool for visitors.
Nyanza
The administrative capital of the Southern Province, Nyanza is the eighth largest city in Rwanda. The main attraction of the region lies in its cultural heritage, which undoubtedly merits a stopover en route to Nyungwe National Park.
Well worth a visit is the King’s Palace, a reconstruction of the traditional royal residence, a beautifully-crafted thatched dwelling shaped like a beehive. At the back live a few long-horned Ankole cattle, descended from the king’s herd, whose keepers carefully tend and sing to them.
In the olden days, Rwandan kings were very mobile, moving between numerous residences scattered throughout the kingdom.
However, by the late 19th century the growing colonial presence risked undermining the authority of the crown. In an attempt to counteract this, Mwami (King) Musinga Yuhi V made Nyanza the first permanent royal capital of Rwanda in 1899 and it kept this status until the country became a republic in 1962.
The royal court impressed the Belgians sufficiently that they chose to exert control through the existing power structure and largely refrained from intruding on the city. Western accounts full of colour, pomp and ceremony blend with Rwandan oral tradition to put Nyanza firmly on the map of cultural heritage.
Whilst Nyanza’s hillsides are no longer covered in roundhouses and the royal court is long dispersed, the region remains an important cultural centre. Other attractions include the Ethnographic Museum in nearby Huye.
Rubavu
A waterfront town on the shores of Lake Kivu, Rubavu is an hour away from the Volcanoes National Park, and makes a good stopover on the way to or from Nyungwe, or somewhere to relax after gorilla tracking.
Rubavu, as well as other spots along Lake Kivu, has red sandy beaches, warm, clean water and an easygoing tropical character. It is a great place to unwind, soak up the tranquil vibe, watch the birds and enjoy various watersports.
Inland, old colonial buildings stand on palm-lined avenues, kept company by various banks, hotels and offices.
The city marks the beginning of the Congo Nile Trail, which extends 227km south to Rusizi. The trail can be enjoyed on foot or by mountain bike, with endless lake views, friendly hamlets, fishermen at work and women clothed in striking prints going about their daily lives.
With many tea and coffee plantations around Rubavu, as well as bird and primates to see in the new Gishwati-Mukura National Park, the area has something for everyone.
Karongi
In our landlocked country, Karongi is perhaps the most popular beach retreat for families living elsewhere in Rwanda. It’s easy to see why, with its majestic vistas, tranquil atmosphere and easy access from Kigali.
Hillsides covered in pines and eucalyptus serve as a backdrop to the sparkling lake, with accommodation to suit most budgets. At dawn and dusk, the sound of local fisherman singing carries across the water as they paddle in unison.
This is a place where busy minds can completely switch off, occasionally glancing up from a good book to notice the birds or the changing colours on the lake as the sun drops over the far side.
For those keen to stay active, various hotels have kayaks to rent. Boats carry small groups out to Napoleon’s Island, home to a colony of fruit bats, or to dine at one of Amahoro Island’s restaurants.
For an authentic experience of Rwandan daily life, head off night fishing with the locals, or kayak out with them at sunset.
To the northwest of Karongi, the Mukura Forest is of particular interest to birdwatchers, with more than 150 recorded species, of which 17 are endemic to the Albertine Rift.
With an average altitude of 2,600m, Mukura is a true montane rainforest – a term used to describe forests in mountainous regions in the tropical belt. The area was granted National Park status in 2015.
Musanze
Poised to become one of Rwanda’s major cities, Musanze’s strategic location in the foothills of the Virunga Massif is attractive to tourism, business and agriculture, with notably fertile land in the surrounding region.
Set at an altitude of 1,850m, the city is a convenient base for gorilla tracking, with the Kinigi headquarters 13km away. For those keen to stay closer to the edge of the Volcanoes National Park, there are various boutique lodges along its fringes with spectacular views and a more rural setting.
Musanze is a hassle-free and buzzing city, with plenty of choice for eating out, ATMs to withdraw cash, vibrant nightlife, markets and artisanal trades.
Excursions from Musanze include a guided tour of the underground caves, bicycle tours and a chance to meet the Rwandan cycling team at the Africa Rising Cycling Centre, the Buhanga Eco-Park and the little-known lakes of Karago, Burera and Ruhondo.
Kibeho
Kibeho Parish has been a global pilgrimage destination for Roman Catholics since the Virgin Mary appeared on 28th November 1981. The focal point is Kibeho Church, where the faithful receive Holy Communion.
Today the site is host to pilgrims throughout the year with two majors dates dominating the calendar – Assumption Day (15th August) and 28th November (the anniversary of the Virgin Mary’s appearance).
During peak season, Kibeho Church receives between 25,000-30,000 visitors. Religious tourists and pilgrims flock from across the world, including America, Poland, The Czech Republic, Slovakia, France, Italy and India.
During low season, Kibeho receives approximately 100 religious tourists a week, mostly from Rwanda, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Tanzania.
National Parks.
Akagera National Park
The relatively warm and low-lying plains of Akagera comprise savannah, woodland, wetland and a dozen lakes. In partnership with African Parks, we aim to transform the National Park into a world-class location to experience a safari.
The largely open expanse is ideal for game viewing, and we are taking steps to ensure the Big Five roam the park in greater numbers over the course of time.
Since 2010 we have cut poaching to an all-time low, with the introduction of a helicopter, a canine unit and rhino trackers.
A family of lions from South Africa is settling in well, and breeding successfully, and 18 eastern black rhinos have also been reintroduced.
Visitors can also encounter buffalo, elephant, antelope, zebra, giraffe, baboons, monkeys, an incredible 490 bird species, plus much more.
A boat trip on Lake Ihema is also a highlight of any visit to Akagera, with its large pods of hippos, Nile crocodiles and abundant waterbirds on the island in the middle of the lake.
The only way to explore the park is by vehicle, whether through a tour operator or self-drive. The National Park also has a vehicle to hire, with individual spaces available on night drives.
It is recommended to take up the services of a guide, which can be booked through the park.
Sleeping within the park is possible, at various lodges, a bush camp in the north at select periods, or camping in specific sites.
Nyungwe National Park
One of the oldest rainforests in Africa, Nyungwe is rich in biodiversity and spectacularly beautiful. The mountainous region is teaming with wildlife, including a small population of chimpanzees as well as 12 other species of primate, including the L’Hoest’s monkey endemic to the Albertine Rift.
With 15 trails, some of which are detailed here, along with various other activities, visitors can choose to sample the delights of the forest or indulge themselves for a week or more in one of Africa’s most stunning forests.
Primate tracking tops most visitor’s list, but it’s worth lingering a little longer for those with time to relax and take in the primal atmosphere.
Botanists will marvel at the 1,068 plant species and 140 orchids. The birdwatching is among the best in Africa with 322 birds species including Red-collared Babbler and 29 other Albertine Rift Endemic species. Butterflies are also a common sight, with at least 120 species.
There are 75 known mammals in Nyungwe, such as the cerval cat, mongoose, congo clawless otter and leopard to name but a few. Many tend to be shy so sightings are luck of the draw.
Memorable and photogenic moments include walking up to the Isumo waterfall or along the Canopy Walk suspension bridge. Tea plantations border the edges of the park, with a habituated troop of Ruwenzori colobus monkeys at Gisakura as well as forest fringe birds.
With plenty of rainfall, Nyungwe is also the major catchment area in Rwanda, and supplies water to 70% of the country.
A ridge running through the forest forms a watershed between the drainage systems of the Nile and the Congo. A spring on the slopes of Mt Bigugu is said to be the most remote source of the Nile, the world’s longest river.
Volcanoes National Park
“In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat,” wrote the eminent primatologist Dian Fossey, “are great, old volcanoes towering almost 15,000 feet, and nearly covered with rich, green rainforest – the Virungas.”
Situated in the far northwest of Rwanda, Volcanoes National Park protects the steep slopes of this magnificent mountain range – home of the endangered mountain gorilla and a rich mosaic of montane ecosystems, which embrace evergreen and bamboo forest, open grassland, swamp and heath.
Volcanoes National Park is named after the chain of dormant volcanoes making up the Virunga Massif: Karisimbi – the highest at 4,507m, Bisoke with its verdant crater lake, Sabinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura.
Tracking endangered mountain gorillas through the mysterious intimacy of the rain forest, alive with the calls of 200 species of colorful birds and chattering of the rare golden monkey, is only one of the truly unique experiences in the area.
Within the boundaries of Volcanoes National Park are Buhanga Eco-Park, an ancient forest holding Rwanda’s most intriguing folklore and Musanze Caves, formed 62 million years ago after the last estimated volcanic eruption.
Hiking, canoeing, mountain biking and village experiences offer something for everyone to enjoy.
Gishwati Mukura National Park
Rwanda’s fourth national park, Gishwati Mukura is made up of two separate forests – the larger Gishwati and small Mukura, forming a total of 34 square kilometres plus a buffer zone.
The forests sit on the ridge which divides the Congo and Nile water catchment areas, along the incredibly biodiverse Albertine Rift in the west of the country. It is made up of 60 species of tree, including indigenous hardwoods and bamboo.
Gishwati is home to a group of 20 chimpanzees which live alongside golden monkeys, L’Hoest’s and Blue Monkeys. Birds are well represented too, 232 species have been seen at Gishwati and 163 at Mukura, among them Albertine Rift Endemic species and forest specialists.
The park is currently part of an ambitious landscape restoration program. Activities in the park are due to begin in 2019 and include a guided nature hike, guided chimp and monkey tracking, bird watching and a visit to the waterfalls.
The area was nearly depleted largely due to resettlement, illegal mining in the mineral-rich forest and livestock farming.
The formalization of its National Park status in 2015 aims to help redress the balance, to increase the number of trees to improve soil fertility, stabilize slopes and regulate stream flow.
It will also contribute to improving the livelihoods of the population living in the surrounding areas, which in turn offers the forest a better chance of regeneration in tandem with the potential to raise living standards in the longer term.
Community-based activities include a farm stay, a live cultural dance, making handicrafts, beekeeping, a tea plantation tour and the chance to learn from traditional healers, who use natural plants to support modern medicine and synthesized drugs.